Whose Harlem Is It? Gucci's Dominant Narrative

Communication is more than the simple act of sending and receiving information; it involves encoding meanings by the sender and decoding those meanings by the receiver. Media texts, such as advertisements and promotional videos, are powerful tools that communicate cultural, political, and economic values. The Gucci x Dapper Dan (BTS) video titled “Made in Harlem” serves as a case study for understanding how fashion, identity, and media intersect in communication. I will be critically analyzing this advertisement video using Stuart Hall’s Encoding and Decoding model. The focus will be on the dominant reading, which is the preferred way the video's producers want the audience to interpret it. The aim is to explain how Gucci and Dapper Dan use visual and symbolic communication to send a message of respect, recognition, and cultural inclusion. Stuart Hall, a leading figure in cultural studies, proposed that communication is not a straight path from sender to receiver. Instead, it is a process where the sender encodes the message with certain meanings and the receiver decodes it, who may interpret it differently based on their background, cultural beliefs, and experiences. Stuart Hall identified three major ways messages can be decoded, which are the dominant reading, where the audience accepts the intended message without questioning it then the negotiated reading where the audience partly agrees but also interprets the message in their way and finally the oppositional reading where the audience rejects the intended message and interprets it differently. In the analysis of this video, I will focus on the dominant reading, where the audience receives and accepts the message encoded by Gucci and Dapper Dan as truthful, positive, and sincere, not in a way that the audience might perceive it, but solely on what message the advertisement intended to convey.

The Gucci x Dapper Dan video is a promotional behind-the-scenes shoot for Numero Homme magazine. The campaign was shot in Harlem, New York, and it highlights Dapper Dan, a legendary African American designer who gained fame in the 1980s for creating custom pieces using luxury brand logos, often without permission. In 2017, Gucci was accused of copying one of Dapper Dan’s designs. The backlash led to this collaboration, where Gucci officially partnered with him to produce authentic designs and open a store in Harlem. The video features shots of Harlem’s streets, barbershops, locals, and Dapper Dan himself. It is set to upbeat music and shows models wearing bold outfits that combine street style and high fashion. The tone is celebratory and respectful, aiming to highlight Harlem’s influence on global fashion and give recognition to Dapper Dan’s legacy. Harlem's setting is intentional, rooted in its profound significance within African American culture, particularly during the Harlem Renaissance, a period marked by exceptional Black artistry and cultural flourishing. By choosing to film in Harlem, Gucci aims to connect its brand with the deep wealth of Black creativity. Dapper Dan’s presence in the video is central. He is shown not just as a designer but as a legend, a symbol of resilience, and a representative of Harlem’s contribution to fashion. Gucci encodes the message that Dapper Dan is no longer being copied or disrespected; he is now a full collaborator, and his genius is finally being recognized. The clothes in the video combine traditional luxury elements (such as velvet, embroidery, and logos) with features of streetwear (like oversized jackets and bold prints). This visual style encodes the message that Black urban fashion is not separate from luxury, it is part of it. Gucci is sending the message that street style deserves to be on the same level as European fashion. While the video does not directly mention the 2017 controversy, it subtly encodes a message of apology and growth. By featuring Dapper Dan, celebrating Harlem, and promoting Black models and creatives, Gucci is showing that it is learning from its past and becoming more inclusive.

From the dominant reading perspective, the Gucci x Dapper Dan collaboration video is designed to present Gucci as a progressive, inclusive, and culturally aware brand. The audience is meant to view Gucci’s actions as a sincere attempt to honour Black creativity and to make up for previous acts of cultural appropriation. The collaboration is positioned not as a marketing strategy but as a deliberate move toward embracing diversity. In the context of media and cultural studies, especially from the lens of TSC, this video can be seen as Gucci’s way of aligning itself with the values of justice, equity, and representation. The visuals, location, and use of real Harlem residents contribute to a carefully encoded message that suggests Gucci is no longer just a European fashion house for the elite but a global brand that listens, learns, and respects marginalized voices. To a dominant viewer, the message is clear, Gucci is now on the right path, and its effort should be applauded.

Furthermore, the dominant decoding encourages viewers to see Dapper Dan as a hero who is finally receiving the recognition he deserves. For years, Dapper Dan was sidelined by the mainstream fashion world despite his huge influence, especially in Black communities across America. He used fashion as a form of resistance and expression, even when luxury brands did not acknowledge his work. Now, Gucci has made him a partner, and the video showcases him as a respected creative figure. This representation is intentional, encoding the message that Black excellence is valid and can no longer be ignored. Dapper Dan’s story reflects a broader narrative of how people from underrepresented communities can reclaim their stories and be celebrated. The dominant reading positions him not as a victim but as a legend whose time has finally come, encouraging viewers to share in that joy and pride. Also, the setting of Harlem in the video is not random; it is a deliberate symbolic choice. Dominant reading helps us see that Harlem is being presented not as a poor or forgotten area, but as a place of style, culture, and global influence. Gucci encodes Harlem as a cultural capital, full of pride and historical significance. The shots of barbershops, the streets, and everyday people highlight Harlem’s authenticity. To a Nigerian audience familiar with neighborhood pride, this can be compared to how places like Surulere or Mushin are rich in cultural expression, even if they are often underrated. So, the viewer is expected to see Harlem not as a backdrop, but as a major contributor to fashion. The dominant reading helps us understand that Harlem is being positioned as a birthplace of global fashion trends, meaning the center of style is no longer just Paris or Milan, but also Black communities like Harlem that have shaped fashion from the roots.

Finally, from the dominant perspective, fashion itself is shown as a powerful tool for social justice and transformation. The Gucci x Dapper Dan partnership is encoded as more than just aestheticism is a step toward healing, dialogue, and progress. The message is that fashion can be used to correct the mistakes of the past and to tell better stories about people who were previously left out. In this video, fashion becomes a medium of communication, capable of sending strong messages about inclusion, equality, and historical repair. This is very relevant in today’s world, where many young people, especially Africans, are calling for fair representation in global industries. The dominant viewer will therefore understand that Gucci is using its platform to uplift Black voices and showcase fashion as a bridge that connects different communities. The Gucci x Dapper Dan BTS video is rich in symbolic meaning. Through the lens of Stuart Hall’s encoding/decoding model, especially the dominant reading, we can see how Gucci and Dapper Dan use fashion and media to communicate powerful messages of respect, recognition, and inclusion. The dominant audience is expected to view the video as a celebration of Black culture and a sign that Gucci is evolving into a more socially responsible brand.